Transforming the Fashion Industry Using Sustainable Materials

May 23, 2022

Lara Villard

9th Grade

Lakeland High School



More often than not, the stores from which we buy our clothes are major contributors to the “fast-fashion” crisis undertaking the world in the twenty-first century, which is directly feeding global emissions. Take a moment and think about the last item of clothing you bought. A graphic tee, a pair of boots, or possibly a new outfit for your high school dance? Now think about where you bought that piece of clothing. Was it H&M, Zara, or Forever 21? Fast fashion, a relatively new term, was coined to describe the practice used by companies to make cheap clothing, and consistently cycling in the newest style or trend. Consumers are encouraged to buy new clothing as the trends change and discard it after a few wears, in what is known as “throw-away” culture. This negatively impacts not only the environment, which according to the eco experts, fashion is the third largest polluting industry, but also exploits workers and harms animals. 


Before the 1800s, people had to source their materials, weave them, and then sew them to make clothing. Garments, at the time, were made to last. A hole in your sock was a problem that could be fixed instantly with a few stitches with a needle and thread. Today, people throw out the pair entirely and buy a new one without giving it a second thought. 


Clothing has become easier and quicker to manufacture due to the rise of the Industrial Revolution in the 1800s and the invention of the sewing machine in the 1830s, making fashion cheap and accessible to all, not just to the wealthy. In the nineteenth century, sweatshops began to emerge and consumerism was on the rise. Clothing transitioned from a basic necessity to a form of expression for the common people. Imagine, once upon a time, there were only four seasons: winter, spring, summer, and fall. Now there are about fifty-two: one for each week. Clothing companies are overproducing like crazy, so it's no surprise when it comes to the amount of fabric that is being thrown away, it’s estimated that 92 million tons of textile waste are generated every year. 

So how do we change this? We need to transition into what is known as slow fashion. Much like what it sounds, clothing in slow fashion is produced at a slower pace and lasts for an increased amount of time. It is a more mindful approach to the industry as a whole, striving to fairly treat humans, animals, and the planet. Slow fashion brands tend to make clothing that is high quality, local, and seasonless. Buying secondhand clothing is also a great way to hop onto the slow fashion movement. Thrifting can save a piece of clothing from becoming waste, and conserve resources that are being used to make new clothing. While similar to sustainable fashion, slow fashion includes ideas of low consumerism and increasing the lifetime of clothing, elements that are not focused on in the sustainable movement. 


Within the science community, innovation in textiles has been making huge strides towards creating greener clothing. Alternatives to cotton, leather, and synthetic fibers are being made to substitute the materials that are being used today. 

(Image credit: iStock)

For example, hemp, also known as the Cannabis Sativa plant, though known for its use as a recreational drug, is also a great source of eco-friendly fabrics. Hemp is strong, tough, and made to last. It has the ability to biodegrade, needs very little water, and is fast-growing. In addition, the plant itself takes up little space when being cultivated due to its dense growth, and can be grown on heavily polluted lands. The plant also takes in more carbon dioxide than trees and needs no fertilizer to help in its growth. Overall, hemp sounds like a near-perfect option to replace the current cotton garments being produced.

Another plant, this one from South Asia, called the lotus, is another eco-friendly alternative. This, unlike other innovative textiles, is nothing new. For centuries, in countries such as Thailand and Myanmar, lotus fibers have been used in weaving. The resulting fabric not only has an amazing feel but is stain-free as well! This means less washing, which means a longer lifetime. On the downside, making lotus fiber clothing is a slow process and an expensive one, so it is not suitable for the masses.

(Image credit: Samatoa Lotus Textiles)

(Image credit: Piñatex)

When it comes to vegan leather, there are many novel technologies on the rise. Piñatex, manufactured by Ananas Anam, uses pineapple leaf fibers that are a byproduct of existing agriculture. Instead of burning these leaves as part of the pineapple harvest, which would burn about 264 tons of CO2 in the atmosphere, they are being made into cruelty-free, non-toxic leathers. 

MuSkin, a leather made from mushrooms, is another alternative to animal skin leather. The material is made entirely from the cap of Phellinus ellipsoideus, a large, inedible mushroom native to subtropical forests. The leather is treated with natural products, unlike the chemicals used in animal leathers that produce harmful environmental impacts. In addition to being nontoxic, the shroom leather is water-repellent.

(Image credit: ZVNDER)

(Image credit: Beyond Leather)

Apple leather, created from the waste of apple cores, stems, skin, and seeds is created by a company called Beyond Leather, based in Copenhagen. They source the apple waste from a small Danish juice producer. About 25% of apple cider produced is wasted, adding up to about 500 to 600 tons of it each year. The material is a mix of organic cotton and wood pulp fibers, while the protective coating, unfortunately, is the traditional plastic one. Beyond Leather, though, aims to change that. They want to make the material, including the coating, 100% biodegradable. 

Fabrics are also being created using squid genes. However weird it may sound, clothing produced by Tandem Repeat, based in Philadelphia, used fibers extracted from the genes. The eco-friendly and low-cost process includes industrial bio-fermentation and the extraction of thermoplastic fibers. The fibers are biodegradable and 100% recyclable, and can be applied as both a fabric and a coating to clothing. It even has self-healing properties, allowing for longer-lasting clothing! 

(Image credit: Tandem Repeat)

(Image credit: reuseplastics.org)

Lastly, what is probably the most known are the classic, recycled material textiles. These generally take recycled plastic, usually water bottles, and turn them into polyester or other fabrics.

Unfortunately, while more sustainable than fabrics made from virgin materials, recycled synthetic fabrics can have harmful effects on the environment. When washed or worn, they shed what is known as microplastics, which then make their way into the water, air, and even to the food we eat. Microplastics especially hurt organisms in the water, who easily ingest the tiny particles. It can cause abrasion in the digestive tract or poisoning from toxic chemicals picked up by the particles. Microplastics can also end up in the water we drink and the food we eat. Based on research, humans approximately eat 100,000 microplastics per year or more. It’s clear that recycled material fabrics are not perfect, but they are a better solution than clothes made directly from fossil fuels.  


These innovative textiles are just a few of the many ways the fashion industry is looking towards a greener future. To transform fast fashion into a slow fashion track, more companies, especially major players in the fashion industry, must aim to take initiative to change their practices and switch to more eco-friendly materials. This is no easy task, and can’t be achieved overnight, but with effort from all sides of the globe, this can be a real possibility.

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